Most people heading to Antarctica think about penguins, ice and seasickness pills. We think about lunch. So when we started reading up on Puerto Williams, the tiny Chilean town at the bottom of South America, one thing caught our attention right away. This is king crab country, and it sits right on the way to the White Continent.
If you’re passing through on your way south, it would be a shame to leave without a proper crab dinner. Here’s when we’d go, what we’d order and how we’d make that last meal on land count.
A Small Town at the End of the Map
Puerto Williams sits on Navarino Island, facing the Beagle Channel. Picture wooden houses, fishing boats and a naval base, with jagged peaks behind them. No road connects it to the rest of Chile. You arrive by small plane, or by a ferry from Punta Arenas that takes about 32 hours.
The wild country around it is the real draw. UNESCO recognizes the area as the Cabo de Hornos biosphere reserve, and its marine zone alone covers more than 3.3 million hectares, or about 8.2 million acres.
Those cold channels and fjords are home to centolla, the Spanish name for southern king crab. It’s the dish that brings food lovers this far south, and you’ll find it on menus around town.
Timing Your Crab Around an Antarctica Cruise
Puerto Williams used to be a stop for hikers and sailors. Now more travelers are likely to see it on an Antarctica cruise, thanks to a shorter way south. Silversea’s polar voyages can either cross the Drake Passage or skip it with a private charter flight to King George Island.
Fly cruise guests start at The Cormorant at 55 South, a new Puerto Williams hotel the line bills as the southernmost on Earth.
That’s where the catch comes in, and we mean that literally. Chile closes the crab fishery for much of the year to protect the stock. Sernapesca, the national fisheries agency, says the current season runs from July 15 to December 15.
Antarctic sailings run through the southern summer, so a good part of the cruise calendar falls outside that window. If fresh crab matters to you, aim for a departure before mid-December.
Later in the summer, ask what’s fresh before you order. Some travelers have been told there’s no crab at all in the closed months, and whatever you do find may have come out of a freezer.
How the Crab Gets to Your Plate
The rules here are strict, and that’s good news for anyone who cares where dinner comes from. The same agency says fishers can only use traps, and every female must go back in the water. Males have to measure at least 12 centimeters, or about 4.7 inches, along the shell.
This fishery shapes life in town. Radio Polar reports that 150 to 180 boats arrive during the season, mostly from Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales. Around 500 to 600 people work directly in the harvest. Boats set their traps in the fjords, the channels and the more exposed bays.
One thing to keep in mind is that officials warn much of the crab sold informally comes from females, which is illegal. So stick to established restaurants and shops, even if someone offers you a bargain on the dock.
What We’d Order
Menus in Puerto Williams are short, and that suits us fine. There are only a few restaurants, and they know what they’re good at. Here’s what we’d look for.
- Chupe de centolla. This baked crab casserole with white sauce and cheese is the classic. It’s rich, hot and perfect for a windy evening.
- Whole centolla. Steamed and served with lemon and butter, it lets the sweet meat speak for itself. Come hungry, and don’t wear anything you love.
- Crab ceviche. A lighter option, sharp with citrus. It’s a nice way to start a meal if you’re ordering more than one crab dish.
- Southern hake. If you land in the closed season, this local white fish is a great stand-in. Fried conger is another good choice.
- Patagonian lamb. Not in a seafood mood? Lamb is the other great flavor of the far south.
To drink, we’d go with a cold Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, which has the acidity to cut through all that butter and cheese. A pisco sour works too, especially before dinner. Look for a version made with calafate, a dark Patagonian berry. Local legend says anyone who eats it will return to Patagonia, which is a risk we’re willing to take.
If you’re staying at The Cormorant, its Latitude 55 restaurant plans to serve local ingredients and classic Chilean dishes family style. Its bar also plans a pisco tasting, along with a lesson on making the perfect sour.
Between Lunch and Dinner
You’ll want something to do while you wait for your next meal. Start with the Yagan Usi museum, which reopened in 2024 under a new name. It tells the story of the Yagan people, who lived in these channels long before anyone came looking for crab.
Then walk it off. The trail up Cerro Bandera gives you a sweeping view of the Beagle Channel and the Argentine side beyond it. It’s steep in places, but a crab casserole has to be earned somehow. Serious hikers can look at the Dientes de Navarino circuit, though that’s a multi-day trek and won’t fit into a quick stopover.
A Few Practical Tips
Food costs more here than you might expect, since so much has to come in by boat or plane. Budget accordingly, and don’t expect big city service. Meals can take a while, which is fine when the view is this good.
Bring some cash, too. Small towns at the end of the world aren’t always kind to foreign cards. Pack layers, even in summer, because the weather changes fast at this latitude.
If you’re catching a charter to the ice, give yourself some breathing room. Weather can delay flights, and a late departure is one more excuse for a second helping.
Final Thoughts
There’s something satisfying about eating one of the great foods of the Southern Hemisphere in the place where it’s caught, with the Beagle Channel outside the window. It’s a simple pleasure at the far edge of the map.
Check the season before you book, order the chupe and don’t skip the calafate. The penguins can wait one more night.
Laura Lynch, creator and writer of Savored Journeys, is an avid world traveler, certified wine expert, and international food specialist. She has written about travel and food for over 20 years and has visited over 75 countries. Her work has been published in numerous guidebooks, websites, and magazines.