Savored Journeys' Guide to Eating Sushi in Japan
Savored Journeys’ Guide to Eating Sushi in Japan

We’ve been eating sushi in America all our lives. It’s good. It’s sometimes really good. But it’s nothing like eating sushi in Japan. As we order deep-fried shrimp rolls and “Seattle” rolls filled with cream cheese, we are all too aware of this fact. It was imperative that we get to Japan immediately for some real Japanese sushi, served the way it is meant to be. Thus we set off on a journey to find and eat all of the sushi in Japan — well, as much as we could, anyway — and write for you this guide to eating sushi in Japan.

Arriving in Tokyo, we were greeted immediately with an abundance of sushi choices. It was available everywhere: in the airport, train stations, all over Tsukiji market, department store basement grocery stores (which were my favorite, by the way), dozens of restaurants everywhere… where ever we looked, there were sushi options.

As with all types of food in Japan, you could see your options laid out before you in the window of restaurants in elaborately designed plastic food displays or on enticing sandwich boards outside the shop, so you always knew where you could go and what you could get there.

Plastic displays of sushi
Plastic displays of food will show you what you’ll get when you order. (Photo by Savored Journeys)

Rather than choose just one, we tried them all. Why not, right? We were in Japan where the freshest and best sushi is found, so we had to take advantage. Tokyo is home to the world’s best sushi restaurants. One in particular most people know about thanks to the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, Sukiyabashi Jiro. Before you start wondering… no, we did not eat there, but we did eat next door at Bird Land. Note about Jiro’s. If you do intend to eat there, you should plan to make a reservation through your hotel concierge months (many, many months) in advance. I’ve heard his son’s restaurant is a more obtainable goal. We choose to eat at a less assuming sushi restaurant in Tokyo, but it was no less stunning.

How to Eat Sushi in Japan

Here are a few things you should know about eating sushi in Japan, that you probably don’t know if you’re only used to eating sushi in America:

  1. California rolls do not exist. If you won’t eat raw fish, don’t bother.
  2. You can eat nigiri with your fingers! Chopsticks are not necessary, unless you’re eating sashimi.
  3. The chef has already added wasabi to nigiri. If it’s necessary that you add more, just dab it sparingly on top of the fish. Don’t mix wasabi into your soy sauce.
  4. Dip nigiri fish-side down into the soy sauce.
  5. If you don’t know what to order, use these two useful Japanese words: Osusume (means: recommendation) and Omakase (Chef’s choice).

Some of the most prevalent ways to find sushi in Japan:

Airport Sushi

Sashimi sliced fresh and ready to eat
Sashimi sliced fresh and ready to eat (Photo by Savored Journeys)

The best part about airport sushi is that you don’t have to wait until you get in to the city to try your first bite of outrageously fresh and delicious sushi. And if you have a long wait to catch your flight after your time in Japan is over, you can have one last taste of sushi. You don’t have to be fearful of airport sushi in Japan, like you do in Detroit. You can pick up a tray of ready-made sushi from duty-free, or any of the convenience stores really, or you can sit down at just about any restaurant and eat a huge plate of awesome sushi.

Train Station Sushi

Sushi box sold at the train station
Sushi box sold at the train station (Photo by Savored Journeys)
Sushi tray bought at the train station
Sushi tray bought at the train station (Photo by Savored Journeys)

There are so many trains in Japan. It’s a preferred method of travel in the country. Short and long train rides are both extremely easy and affordable, for the most part (if you want to save money on train travel in Japan, check out the tourist-only Japan Railpass). The Shinkansen trains that take you from Tokyo to Kyoto or Osaka and further into the country, are very popular trains. In those train stations, you’ll find many vendors who sell bento boxes, called ekiben, that are meant to take on the train.

It is a very popular thing to do to shop for your favorite ekiben before boarding the train and eat it aboard. There are dozen of shops in the stations that sell these bento boxes. The one that we opted for was a delicious array of sushi. You can also pick up sushi trays in luei of a traditional ekiben to have on the train.

Tsukiji Market Sushi

Such freshness!
Such freshness! Sushi at Tsukiji Market (Photo by Savored Journeys)

Tsukiji Fish Market is an incredibly popular place for tourists. Everyone loves to see the fresh fish coming in to the market in the mornings, especially the ever popular huge bluefin tuna! Whether you go there to see the famous tuna auction bright and early in the morning, or just to walk around the outer market and eat lots of awesome food (which is what we did!) you’ll obviously want to stay for a sushi breakfast or lunch.

Lines form at the most popular sushi bars at Tsukiji Market
Lines form at the most popular sushi bars at Tsukiji Market (Photo by Savored Journeys)

Everyone will tell you that you have to have sushi from Daiwa Sushi or Sushi Dai. They are two of the most popular sushi places at Tsukiji Market. You may ask why. It’s not because they are the freshest or best places around. Come on – the fish all comes from the same place and many of these sushi chefs have been working on their craft for dozens of years, so it’s rude to suggest those two chefs are better than everyone else. It’s because they were lucky enough to be featured on a popular TV show. If you want to wait hours (yes, HOURS) in line there, be my guest. We ventured a few streets away and had an amazing and crowd-free sushi experience.

Standing sushi bar at Tsukiji Market
Standing sushi bar at Tsukiji Market (Photo by Savored Journeys)

At Tsukiji, it’s also common to just walk up to a standing sushi bar and order whatever sushi delights you want from the small 2-3 person bar.

Department Store Basement Grocery Sushi

Department store grocery sushi
Department store grocery sushi (Photo by Savored Journeys)

There are many huge department stores in Tokyo. Every large central area has one (Ginza, Shinagawa, Shibuya, Yebisu, etc.) In the basement of each of these department stores is a grocery store that will blow your mind. Part of it is just like a regular grocery store with people shopping around for their regular weekly groceries. Part of it is like they are preparing to set up a photo shoot with expensive food products. Every apple is individually wrapped in frilly bubble wrap. Boxes of premium candies line the shelves. The enter left half of the store looks like a make up counter with store associates pulling tiny pieces of food from case to show potential buyers. It’s a trip.

Specialty groceries in the department store basement food stores
Specialty groceries in the department store basement food stores (Photo by Savored Journeys)

But I digress. The best part of the basement grocery store is the sushi selection. Every morning for breakfast, rather than spend $30 on the overpriced hotel buffet, we went to the grocery store sushi section and picked out an outrageous tray of sushi to share. It’s all amazingly delicious and really cheap but our standards. We could never find sushi like this in our grocery store, and we probably wouldn’t want to eat it if we did.

Restaurant Sushi

We tried fish we hadn't had at home at Sushi Matsue
We tried fish we hadn’t had at home at Sushi Matsue (Photo by Savored Journeys)

I already touched on the fact that you can find some of the top sushi restaurants in the world in Tokyo, like Sukiyabashi Jiro, Sawada, and Yoshitaki. You can dine at these top restaurants, if you’re lucky and get a reservation. You’ll obviously pay top dollar for the experience, but it’ll likely be worth it, if it’s an experience you’re after. Otherwise, there are many dozens of incredible sushi restaurants in Tokyo. I think the best way to find one that suits you is to ask the concierge at your hotel, or look at Trip Advisor or Yelp reviews for places around your hotel. Otherwise you might be trapsing all over the city trying to find one I recommend, which isn’t necessary.

We went to a very nice sushi restaurant called Sushi Matsue in the Ebisu neighborhood. It was a multi-level place. We had a room upstairs where we sat at a sunken table, which I thought was really great. In this case, we were with a Japanese speaker, so we didn’t have to worry about deciphering the menu or what to order. If we were by ourselves, we would have either sat at the bar and ordered omakase, or we would have chosen a more “English-friendly” restaurant. They brought out a lot of types of fish we hadn’t tried before, and a few that were clearly better in Japan than we’d had at home (including the Sea Urchin, which we’d only ever found acceptable at home – it was amazing in Japan).[td_smart_list_end]

Now you can see why I say that sushi in America is nothing like sushi in Japan. No matter where you try sushi in Japan, it’s also fresh and delicious, and prepared with skill and care. In the U.S., you have to worry about freshness and whether it’s been sitting out too long. In Japan, it’s always a beautiful and delicious piece of fish, draped over perfectly vinegared rice, not potentially smelly and slimy fish over a crusty, dried out lump of rice or a clumsily put together roll filled with a bunch of things that have no business being in a roll. Just saying.

A few final things about eating sushi in Japan

  1. This goes for eating in Japan in general actually. We were never given a napkin to put in our laps. We were instead given a wet rolled towel to wipe our hands on before our meal. You should roll the towel back up and place it back near your plate and then use that to clean your fingers throughout the meal if you need to, after handling your sushi.
  2. Soups like miso aren’t eaten with a spoon, so that’s why you weren’t given one. Just drink it. 🙂
  3. Try to eat the fish in the order the chef recommends or as they are placed on your plate.
  4. Sushi isn’t meant to be a long, drawn out meal. The fish is meant to be eaten usually within 45 seconds or less, to preserve its perfect temperature.

Have fun and enjoy!
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11 thoughts on “Savored Journeys’ Guide to Eating Sushi in Japan

  1. Corinne says:

    Laura, Great tips. I like that you tried all the different places where sushi is found. And the verb for “eating” soup is “drinking” soup, because that’s what you do. Your article makes me miss Japan!

    • Laura Lynch says:

      Thanks Corinne. I think I would have eaten sushi out of a back alley if it was available! 🙂 And you’re so right – it’s definitely “drinking” soup.

  2. Sara | Belly Rumbles says:

    What a great little guide to eating sushi in Japan, plus the added other little dining tips. Aren’t department store food basements amazing! Not only is there sushi but an incredible range of delicious food. I could spend hours in them (and do sadly).

  3. Christina says:

    Some good tips on eating sushi in Japan here. It reminds me of the last time I tried ordering in Tokyo. It was one of those cool modern upmarket bars with no pictures in the menu or plastic food. We just had to point and hope for the best!

  4. Anne says:

    I always thought I would hate sushi until I actually went there. Then I tried it and fell in love with it and it is so healthy (I think!)

  5. Alina Popescu says:

    I don’t think I can eat sushi. Tried a few times, and it was a total fail. Knowing that, these photos and your tips still made me want to try it properly, in Japan. Cause maybe it tastes differently there 😀 At least I don’t give up easily.

  6. Jackie Sills-Dellegrazie says:

    Great tips on local etiquette and how to eat the sushi! I love all the places you found great sushi and how a smart sushi-loving person would really never want to eat sushi from a train station or airport outside of Japan.

  7. Sia says:

    I’ve encountered the miso soup without a spoon problem, but quickly realized I don’t need it. Some food types like sushi or seafood really do need a guide. When I started reading I thought okay I eat vegetarian sushi, but I guess there is no such thing there. Could work with smoked fish but definitely not raw.

  8. Aileen Adalid says:

    Aaah, your post is making me miss Japan more and more! I absolutely love the sushi there because even the cheap places can already be better tasting than the more expensive shops abroad. Thank you so much for this list too! It’s great to know more about this fare 😀

  9. Mar Pages says:

    Honestly every piece of sushi I tried was delicious, even those from the convenience stores! The sushi rolls were great for breakfast.

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