Some of Europe’s most sought after, and expensive, red wines come from the Ribera del Duero – a wine region of Spain, an area most casual wine drinkers are not so familiar with.
If you like to travel for wine, you’ll definitely want to check out Ribera del Duero and become familiar with its many treasures — not just the wine, but the history, the culture and the one-of-a-kind foods that will knock your socks off.
This Discover Wine series focuses on regions of the world that you can visit for wine tasting.
The Ribera del Duero is located just a couple hours north of Madrid on the main highway, along the famous Duero river, and a couple hours south of the Rioja wine region, which is also packed with great bodegas to visit. It’s easy to get to, but being that it is a world-class wine region, it’s largely undiscovered, so you have to work a little harder for your tastings.
There aren’t a lot of tourists in the area, and most of the wineries are open by appointment only. But don’t let that keep you away. It’s quite easy to set up appointments.
Most of the people who will be helping you at the Ribera del Duero wineries speak at least some English, so it’s not difficult to set your own itinerary even if you don’t speak Spanish. If you need a tour of the facility in English, you’ll have to be flexible because they often only offer one per day, or every couple of days.
Just hop on their websites to book an appointment at least a day in advance (much earlier if you don’t want to be disappointed) through an online form or through email.
» Want more info on what to eat in Spain? Check out our Spain travel guide. I highly recommend a pinchos crawl in Logrono or pintxos in San Sebastian, in Northern Spain. If you’re going to Southern Spain, find out where to eat tapas in Seville. And don’t miss a trip to the Rioja wine region.
Planning Your Own Wine Tour
It can be time consuming to plan a wine tour in Ribera del Duero because you will likely have to arrange each tour and work out a schedule that fits in all the wineries you wish to visit. I wouldn’t recommend more than 3 wineries in a day. Though some of them are quite close together, some are far apart. Plus you want to save a lot of time to enjoy lunch.
Consult a map before deciding where to go. I did find it difficult to find many of the smaller wineries on Google Maps, so I had to ask the winery for their address when contacting them for appointments.
You will find a list of the wineries we recommend visiting below.
Book a Group Wine Tour
To make it easier on yourself, there are plenty of group or private tours you can book – mostly leaving from Madrid.
- Guided Tour to Ribera del Duero Winery and Wine Tasting from Madrid
- Premium Ribera del Duero wine tour with lunch & hotel pick-up
These two tours that we recommend visit 2-3 wineries with a stop at a local restaurant for lunch. If you only have a little bit of time in the area, it’s a good way to go because all of the stops are arranged for you and you have a driver so you can enjoy the wines.
Where to Taste Ribera Del Duero Tempranillo
Vega Sicilia’s famous Unico wines are some of the most expensive and highly valued wines in the world, but it’s not possible to stop there for a wine tasting. A handful of other wineries in the area, like relative newcomers Pingus and Abadia Retuerta, are quickly becoming the established names in the region.
But there are lots of smaller producers and family-owned bodegas to visit that will give you a down-to-earth picture of the region without breaking the bank.
Many of the larger wineries have started to build architecturally stunning buildings that you’ll want to have a look at, as well. So do make sure that you have a balance between the older, family-run, and the larger, more commercial bodegas.
Near Aranda de Duero, you’ll find a higher proportion of older wineries, some with elaborate underground cellars that you can visit, to get an idea of how wine has been made and stored here for centuries.
El Lagar de Isilla
El Lagar de Isilla has two locations. Wine making began in 1995 in the restaurant in Aranda de Duero where the owners stored their first production of wines. They later opened the bodega, located about 15 km outside of Aranda de Duero, occupying a colonial farmhouse in the small town of La Vid.
El Lagar de Isilla offers a lot of great experiences. You can tour the winery and taste the wines at the Bodega, then combine it with a traditional lunch of lechazo in the restaurant in Arande. You can also visit their spa and participate in a harvest experience.
You’ll find all the options on their website. Once you choose your experience, you will have to call or email to book it.
Location: Camino Real, 1 09471 La Vid
Website | bodegas@lagarisilla.es
Bodegas Portia
Located right along the freeway, Bodega Portia is hard to miss. It looks like a UFO has landed in the middle of a field. The ultra-modern building is in the shape of a three-pointed star. The barrel room and cellar are enormous.
There’s an English tour you can take of the facility, from Monday to Friday at 10am and there’s a restaurant that offers local and modern lunch options. The best way to really get a taste for the wines is to pair them with food at the restaurant.
Location: Carretera N1, Salida 171, A-1, 09370 Gumiel de Izán, Burgos, Spain
Website | visitas@familiamartinezzabala.es
Bodegas Legaris
The Legaris winery is built in the shape of a cross and the winemaking goes on around the extensions and the center courtyard. It’s a very tranquil and lovely setting. The tasting room is painted all white to allow you to see the colors and textures of the wine.
The wine is made from various different parcels of land around the area that all have a different micro-climate, which leads to great variances in the expression of the wine. A visit can include a tour, tasting of 4 wines with a tapa, or with tapas in their wine bar, at sunset on the terrace with views of the Peñafiel castle.
Location: Carretera Peñafiel- Encinas de Esgueva, km 2,5, 47316 Curiel de Duero, Valladolid, Spain
Website | Book on their website
Bodegas Protos
You won’t want to miss this one, as it combines the old, rich culture of the area, with the new, modern winery. It’s one of the oldest and biggest winery productions in the region, so you’ll likely be able to find these wines in the U.S., if you’re looking for something you can enjoy again.
The Protos tour takes you into the old underground cellars which are located within the hillside underneath the Penafiel Castle. The cellar connects with the new spectacular winery building that was designed by Sir Richard Rogers.
There are three different tasting experiences you can book, that each include a tour of the underground cellars, Roger’s winery, and a tasting of 2-3 wines.
Location: Cam. Bodegas Protos, 24-28, 47300 Peñafiel, Valladolid, Spain
Website | Reserve Online
Cepa 21
Owned by the Moro family, Cepa 21 is a project started by the third generation of the Moro family, desiring to start a project that brought happiness and creativity through innovative architecture and unique experiences, and above all a passion for wine.
It’s a beautiful building surrounded by Tempranillo grapes. It’s a great place to visit for a view of the valley and to see the Moro family winemaking prowess in action. They also have a very nice restaurant that serves a tasting menu for lunch, paired with their wines.
You can choose from a few unique experiences – wine paired with chocolate, a wine and bike experience, an aromatic experience, or a food and wine experience.
Location: Carretera N-122, Km 297, 47318 Castrillo de Duero, Penafiel Spain
Website
Finca Villacreces
Nestled between a century-old pine forest, right along the Duero River, alongside the famous vineyards of Vega Sicilia, is Finca Villacreces. This is a lovely hidden gem of a winery on the Golden Mile, where some of Spain’s most reknown wineries reside, but Villacreces is more approachable. The winery is surrounded by its picturesque vineyards.
The estate started out as a monastery with surrounding vineyards for use by the monks who lived there, but it was eventually turned into a winery in 2007. A visit to the winery includes a tour of the vineyards and tasting. You can also have a picnic among the vines, or go on a bike tour of the vineyards.
Their wine bar is open every day as well, so you can just walk up and tastes some wines without a tour.
Location: Ctra. Soria (N-122) Km. 322, 47350 Valladolid (Spain)
Website
Emilio Moro
Emilio Moro is a historical estate in Ribera del Duero, located on the Golden Mile, alongside many of the other original wineries and wine estates. However, just as they helped usher in the wine industry to Ribera del Duero, they’re doing their part to modernize it too.
They’ve mostly shed the classic Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva terms for modern wines with their own personalities. Their wines speak for themselves, but definitely don’t miss the Old Vines Malleolus.
While you’re there, take the time to enjoy a leisurely lunch tasting menu paired with their wines, which is a great way to celebrate a visit to the area.
Location: Ctra. Peñafiel-Valoria, S/N, 47315, Pesquera de Duero, Valladolid
Website
Where to Stay in Ribera del Duero
Visitors either choose to stay in Aranda de Duero, a centrally located city along the freeway, or to the west in Penefiel, located along the Duero river, where many of the top wineries are.
Here are our recommended hotels in the area:
Hotel Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena
The beautiful Hotel Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena is set in Valbuena de Duero. It has a spa center and hot spring bath, gorgeous rooms, and a lovely terrace.
Phone: +34 983 68 30 40; Website: https://www.castillatermal.com/
Abadia Retuerta Le Domaine
This restored abbey is majestically set on 500 acres of vineyards in the Duero Valley. It’s a gorgeous place to stay. The intimate resort with just 30 rooms and suites offers full butler service. Refectorio, the abbey’s original dining hall, is now a Michelin-starred restaurant of haute cuisine.
Phone: +34 983 68 03 14 Website: https://www.abadia-retuerta.com/hoteles/
Hotel Torremilanos
The rooms are very comfortable and well-appointed, the views from the rooms are spectacular, the vineyards and surrounding area are breathtakingly beautiful.
Phone: 34/94-751-2852; Website: www.torremilanos.com
Other Hotel Options
The Bodegas Peñalba Lopez is located near the hotel and guests are offered a free tasting tour with their stay. It’s a great location from which to explore the area. And it’s close to the center of Aranda de Duero, where you’re going to want to eat at least once while you’re there. We’ll get to that in a moment.
⇒ Read reviews on Trip Advisor.
About 30 minutes further along the N122, is the small town of Peñafiel, where you’ll find the Hotel AF Pesquera. They also have a bodega, La Bodega de Alejandro, and a nice restaurant and wine bar. Staying here will put you in close proximity to some of the best wine tasting in the area.
⇒ Read reviews on Trip Advisor.
Where to Eat in Ribera del Duero
Now we get to the really good part! The lechazo asado. A specialty of the area, this roast suckling lamb is served in the traditional restaurants only in this region. It even has an IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) status because of the unique way the lamb is raised only on milk, which is said to make the meat especially tender and delicious.
You don’t want to miss this. Aside from the wine, it is the second most important reason to visit this area. There are a number of restaurants that serve this specialty.
At El Lagar de Isilla, the traditional Castellano menu includes Sopa Castellana (Garlic Soup), Pinchos de Chorizo and Morcilla (Tapas with chorizo and blood sausage), and the infamous Lechazo Asado en Horno de Leña (wooden stove). The meal is served with wine from the bodega. And it’s AMAZING.
The lechazo is so moist and flavorful and the skin is incredibly crispy and rich. Each of the accompaniments were unique and exciting. It was one of the best meal we ate in Spain, and believe me, that’s saying a lot.
Another popular restaurant in Aranda de Duero serving lechazo is Meson el Pastor. In Penefiel, you’ll find this specialty at Asados Alonso or Molino de Palacios.
For winery lunches, the top places to visit are Bodegas Portia and Cepa 21. Check out their menus online and reserve a table before you arrive.
CONCLUSION
There are really so many great things about the region. You could easily spend three to four days here and not run out of things to do, wineries to visit and different local foods to try. No wine lover should miss a trip to the Ribera del Duero wine region.
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Laura Lynch, creator and writer of Savored Journeys, is an avid world traveler, certified wine expert, and international food specialist. She has written about travel and food for over 20 years and has visited over 75 countries. Her work has been published in numerous guidebooks, websites, and magazines.
Thanks for the info! Just wondering what your thoughts are on doing a day trip from Madrid via bus – is it possible to tour Ribera del Duero on our own, or would you a recommend doing it with a tour? Not sure how far apart the bodegas are.
Hi Louise – a day trip by bus from Madrid would be a good way to go if you don’t want to put the effort into planning it yourself and driving there. It’s a 2-hour drive. If you pick an area like Penafiel along RT N122, you’ll find plenty of wineries to visit within a few miles of each other. It’s imperative that you make reservations in advance and that’s where the tour comes in. They can make all those arrangements for you and guarantee there’s an English tour available. Doing it on your own doesn’t guarantee they can accommodate you. If you have any more questions, please feel free to email me. savoredjourneys at gmail.com
Thank you, Laura!
Why don’t yo say something about the small Family owned bodegas and only about massiv Business tat every on knows allready ?
My question exactly, can you reccomend nice smaller bodegas, with diferent tourism approach and reasonable pricing?
Why don’t yo say something about the small secret Family owned bodegas and only about mass Business that every one knows allready ?
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Can you reccomend nice smaller bodegas in the area, with more personal tourism approach and reasonable pricing?
Tomaz, you could try Lopez Cristobal Winery and Bodegas Ismael Arroyo. One of the best ways to find smaller bodegas is to ask around when you get there. The locals know the best small wineries that take visitors.
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